With its striking monochromatic dial, this Patek Philippe 6000G departs from the traditional Calatrava look and follows in the footsteps of the 5000G to project a sleek style that brings the Calatrava design into the modern era.

A Historic Lineage

First introduced in 1932, the Calatrava reference 96 was one of the earliest wristwatches ever released by Patek Philippe. The manufacture had just been purchased by Charles and Henri Stern, and this was the first model they released, with the intention of breathing a new life into the Genevan brand. Designed by David Penney, who was heavily influenced by the Bauhaus school of art, the Calatrava design favoured simplicity – a significant departure from the excess of the Art Deco era. Meanwhile, the name “Calatrava” and the familiar Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross were styled after the medieval Order of Calatrava, an organisation of knights that originated in Spain.

Looking back, this original design is considered by many as the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on many different forms, including with this reference 6000G, introduced in 2005, which combines both classic and modern elements. The Calatrava 6000G is a descendant of the 5000G, which was initially produced between 1992 and 1993, in a limited edition of 1000 pieces. It marked a significant departure from the traditional Calatrava image with its modern font and dark dial. The 6000G continues this tradition of more contemporary design, with a touch of added complexity, namely a date ring running around the outermost section of the dial, and a pointer date.

The Design

The most distinctive aspect of the 6000G is the stark contrast between the black dial and the white gold case, in addition to the date ring that encloses the center of the dial, which is rendered in a similar font to the hour markers. A date hand with a red crescent provides a touch of colour to the otherwise monochromatic colour scheme, while also ensuring greater legibility for the wearer.

A train-track style minute track encircles the center of the dial, which is echoed around the small seconds sub-dial, present in place of the 4 o’clock index marker. The Arabic numerals on this 6000G have a contemporary feel and are printed in white for ease of legibility. Paradoxically, the sans serif font used has a distinct touch of modernity to it, continuing to carry on the series’ direction towards a new age.

At 37mm in diameter, the watch is slightly bigger than a classic Calatrava, and is a definitively modern size that has a solid presence on the wrist. The strap is fitted with a deployant clasp that bears the Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross, an emblem that also features on the crown of the watch.

The Movement

This Ref. 6000G is powered by the cal. 240, a self-winding movement that was first launched in 1977 with the 3739 Golden Ellipse and used in Patek Philippe’s ultra-thin perpetual calendars.

When viewed through the sapphire caseback, the beautifully finished movement can be seen, with fine Geneva stripes, as well as exquisite chamfering on all angles. The movement is also inset with 27 jewels a 48-hour power reserve, and a 22k gold rotor. It bears the Geneva Seal, a mark of excellence given only to watches with the highest quality by the city of Geneva, and which was first established in 1886.

The Set

This Patek Philippe 6000G comes with an Extract from the Archives, confirming the case and movement number, as well as the date of manufacture and sale. It comes with a black Saffiano strap, a white gold Patek Philippe deployante buckle and a black alligator Patek Philippe strap.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Calatrava 6000G will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe Calatrava 6000G is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.